What size genoa?

All Forums Boat Talk What size genoa?

Viewing 4 posts - 1 through 4 (of 4 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #10941

      Crusader Sails have just received my ancient genoa in order to quote for a replacement (15% discount for HT owners at the moment!)

      Anyway, turns out what I thought was a giant genoa, which made tacking a nightmare, is in fact only a 120% genoa and they had recommended a 135% high aspect ratio. So does anyone have any ideas? Surely bigger is faster, but is a high aspect blade shape more efficient?

      In a very unscientific measurement, when close hauled the clew of the sail extends to the centre line of the cockpit – does that seem big or small?

      Thanks

      Simon

      #11432

        Simon

        That’s sounds the same as my Genoa, which judging by its condition it is probably the original. I’ll quote DavidH “A larger headsail, say a genoa, has to wrap around the shrouds or be cut with a big curve in the leach to clear under and inside the cap shrouds. As the latter seems a waste, most people use a genoa around the outside and accept the lack of heading that comes with it.” I tore mine couple of weeks ago and was most upset but not very surprised.
        Have you considered a 100% jib and a screecher instead? It apparently gives much better performance. I’ve had some trouble with the windward performance so am taking DavidH’s and my local sail makers advice and going for a roller furling 100% Jib and adding tracks to the cabin roof. That way you can sheet right in a point better. For the wider angles above 45 you may want to consider a streaker/screacher/G-0/C-0 (got many names apparently) I’m told they are all basically the same thing i.e. an asymmetrical spinnaker but the one that’s cut closest to a geona. Some people just pick up larger standard genoas with a wire luff for this. According to northsails the wind range on their G-0 is apparently 40-115 degrees, although this is probably for a monohul. This sail will be big and for lighter air, once the air picks up to much the jib can take over from there. http://www.northsails.com/north_america/cruising_sails/G0QA.htm
        The catch is tacking looks a little tricky as it’s done round the front of the sail unless of course you could install a decent length retractable bowsprit then you could tack it round the front of the forestay. I’m sure you have had enough practice doing this with getting your genoa around that annoying second forestay that the HT’s have. I probably won’t find it so annoying once it proves its worth and holds me through a storm. The sheets apparently can go all the way to the back and the sail is run outside the shrouds. Not sure yet but I think the geona track may be fine for this (according to my local sail maker it they will suffice). You could build one out of a larger standard used wire luff genoa and use a harken furler that’s designed for this.
        There is a good article on the subject: http://www.time-for-a-catamaran-adventure.com/catamaran-screecher.html

        The other catch is the price 2 or 3 sails instead of 1 (considering a reaching asymmetrical too, instead of a symmetrical). Just got a quote for custom sails and it’s not pretty. Taking the effort to measure everything out and search for second hand sails is what I’m going to have to do for now. I think it will be worth it in the end.

        I would be interested in the sail measurements if you have them. In fact any of you measurements (I,J,Max luff,Mast height etc.) as I’m trying to put together a record of the HT27 measurements.

        #11431

          Ryan – thanks for such a detailed reply. A few points that occur to me:

          1. two sails may be more expensive but the shape of a genoa off wind is much less important, so I could buy a 110% jib now for a fair bit less than a 135% genoa and pretty much get a cruising chute with the difference (cunning plan huh!)
          2. It's windward performance that bugs me with the HT so the shape is most important for that.
          3. I am going the laminate route with Crusader to get the best performance and longevity. They sell a cruising laminate for 35% more than stretchy dacron.

          I've pm'd James Jermain on the YBW forum asking his advice; if I hear anything I'll let you know.

          As for measurements, it seems many HT's had slightly different sized masts. I'll measure mine and let you know what sail size I end up with.

          #11433

            Simon

            I’m not sure if we can fit a 110% jib i.e. if it’s 100% it comes up to the mast so were do the tracks go then.… apparently if they are on the cabin roof then the jib won’t be 100% it’ll be around 90%-95%. Was trying to figure out if I could put them on the aft cabin roof that way I guess a little over 100% is possible but having the clew end in the cockpit and the sheet cutting across may be inconvenient if is at all feasible.
            I’ve ordered a book on this stuff so hopefully I can work out the best angle of attack, optimum place to put the tracks, the optimum length of the sheet to the clew from the track etc…

          Viewing 4 posts - 1 through 4 (of 4 total)
          • The forum ‘Boat Talk’ is closed to new topics and replies.

          Comments are closed.