HT Mk 111 steering

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  • #10939

      Hi all, discused lots of times but can anyone send photos or design of the connection of the rudders if you whant to get rid of the wooden on. So it looks like a T 27.

      Best regards

      #11424

        Mine was modified in 84 but still works fine. Big heavy tie bar joins both rudders near middle pintle, and it has the advantage that you can put a wooden platform between the two stern projections and a boarding ladder outside the tiebar. Makes access so much easier. Contact me if youre interested and I could possibly get a photo or come and have a look at Poole.

        #11425

          Thanks Jim

          I have mailed you

          #11427

            Hi Steve,

            I used to own “Camargue” (HT MKIII) that had been modified by her original owner to remove the wooden tie-bar (he'd fitted a pair of pushpits). Instead of using any form of tie-bar, the owner had fitted a seperate morse steering system (they are designed to bolt together each side of the steering wheel spindle) and then fed an additional morse cable to the 2nd rudder under the rear bunks to another Stainless Steel rudder bracket.

            It certainly worked extremily well and in the event of failure you always had a backup!

            The new owner of “Camargue” (Robin Jennings – also a member of the association) may be able to provide a a couple of pictures if it helps.

            Bruce

            #11428

              As i make a complete refit, I made new rudders (aluminium), both with a “arm” going inside the boat, linked between them by a 16 mm diameter SS rod passing near the rear wall and connected on the port side to the Morse cables. I hope it's clear and understandable 🙂
              [img]http://vrcc.photostash.com/vrcc_15114/safrans1.JPG[/img]

              #11426

                After my recent experience of a lower pintle failing and the steering bar arm on the rudder coming throught the side of the boat I have an observation to make regards your intended observation. I am unconvinced about the design of an internal tie bar as on the HT 27. It creates two large holes in the hull only about 9 inches above the water line (not enough to stop heavy seas coming into the boat as I discovered). You are entirely dependant upon the rubber gaiters covering these holes to be intact (and pintles not failing, which are in my opinion too lightly engineered on the originals). I would seriously consider whether the deck mounted original bar is not perfectly alright as it is. Otherwise make your holes and attach your internal tie bar as high up as you can internally.

                #11429

                  I Replaced the original rubber gaiters with the rubber that covers the gearshiftstick of a car (renault). this way the rubber is able to follow the movement of the tie bar more easily. Moreover the closing of the rubber around the tie bar is closer to the axle of rotation of the rudder and hardly moves at all.
                  I found that the original setup the rubber gaiter has to work too hard the movement there is around 5-cm. max. Still, it is not perfect as a drop or so still seeps through in rough weather, but that has to do with the white cover that holds it into place.
                  I am not convinced by the setup for the emergency rudder on the HT27. Maybe that could be solved much better with the conventional tiebars.
                  Good luck.
                  Juup

                  #11421

                    Hi all

                    Thanks for all your great replies.
                    Think I might go for the twin morse cables . Seems the easy way out.
                    I also have a platform on the stern. Trying to attach a photo

                    Best regards

                    Steve
                    [img][/img]
                    It didn't work did it. !!!???

                    #11422

                      Those new rudders look great – bet they are much lighter!

                      #11423

                        around 30 pounds each. 5 mm thick AG4 aluminium sheet with square tube “internal spine bone”. and full round tube in front and at the bottom . The bottom was then shapped with a disc grinder. The most difficult has been how to bend the alu sheet (the final tip : rolling on it with my car to join the two sides, allowing to start welding!!!! great moment!!!!)

                        Close view
                        [img]http://vrcc.photostash.com/vrcc_15114/safrans2.JPG[/img]

                        Bottom
                        safrans3.jpg

                        Emergency in case of problem on morse cables
                        safrans4.jpg

                        #11430

                          Hi Yann.
                          Are the rudders ok and when can we place an order.

                          Steve

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