[moved] standing rigging

Barry, 6 years ago I did mine on an HT by taking the old rigging to a riggers and had it made up to match. With screw adjusters, and making sure lines are shorter rather than too long if there's any doubt, this was fine ( … it turned out my old cap shrouds were different lengths!!). Telephoned around at first to get the best deal and a slot when they were not at all busy. I finished the forestay and babystay with a staylock or similar. The staylocks or equivalent are excellent – stronger than the wire. Don't be put off using these devices: I wouldn't hesitate in using them on all standing rigging. Of course, all this means the mast needs to be down, and also that you don't want or need to change the end fittings (eg T bar to ball and shell or whatever), which you might. Anyway, doing it this way seemed to halve the bill and you learn a lot. For example, walk round any boatyard and you'll see a lot of rigging nightmares, mostly connected to the lack of forward/aft and lateral articulation that is absolutely critical if the standing rigging is not to be shock loaded and break (as Mike points out) or an angle (kink) between the wire and the swage because of the angle that the T-bar sits from the socket/backing plate. Go for it!