foam hollow spaces.

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  • #11006

      There are quite a few places on our HT27 that you could fill with foam.
      In the bows there are these boyancy chambers and all up front, aside the watertanks.
      there are large unused spaces above the enginerooms (the 'backrests' of the cockpit)
      under the aftcabin floors under the berths. etc etc
      Do you know if there are HT s that have filled these with foam.
      And what is there to know about filling hollow spaces with foam.
      These places are unused anyway. filled with foam the are safer and make the boat stiffer.
      Tell me!
      Juup

      #11640

        Hi Juup
        Heard lots of bad things about foam so on the Gypsy we built we filled the boyancy chambers with empty mineral water bottles.
        I also had a 15mm pipe glassed 2 cm above the bottome with a valve in it. This allowed me to check if it was flooding.

        Steve

        #11639

          Hi Juup – builders foam will gradually soak up the water if covered in water for any length of time – and then it will be a real pig to get out. Closed cell polystyrene micro balls would be good as would water bottles!

          #11642

            I have a Mark ll/lll that had its hulls filled with CLOSED CELL foam below the waterline. Cores removed more than 30 years after the foam was put in by the person who built it from a kit, shows absolutely no water in the foam. Its bone dry. But if you use “builder's foam” or open cell foam, the ingress of water is possible, especially over an extended period. The difference between the two is the gas used to form the bubbles remains in the closed cell and water can't get in. The foam is actually a different chemical structure anyway.

            Also, and perhaps more important, when the hull hits an object below the waterline, the rigidity of the closed cell foam prevents major damage to the hull (it helps prevent collapsing or ripping inwards) and certainly prevents any ingress of water. The only down side of the foam in the hulls is that there is little room for water to gather and that which does collect can have a go at the wood supports for the flooring. But as there seem to be several HTs with rotting floors beams and no foam – the two aren't necessarily related! But I fear closed cell foam gets a poor press – mainly because its confused with open cell foam.

            I am currently stripping out the HT and completely rebuilding it. But I will put foam back into both hulls as well as the fore and aft sections – although it will be closed cell foam (which is about five times the cost of the open cell – or builders foam). Golden rule – if it comes from one bottle or one can its the wrong foam. You need two cans or containers to make closed cell foam.

            To keep costs down I've filled 1.5 litre milk containers with polystyrene chips (the type you get in packaging) and then put the caps back on. The hulls are lined with closed cell foam – the bottles set in and then the whole lot surrounded and topped with foam. If you don't fill the containers they collapse. The containers also make it also makes it easier should you need to remove the foam in the future. Apparently this system is quite a common practice by those who use closed cell foam in boats for buoyancy.

            Hope this sparks a good debate.

            #11641

              Completly refitting my HT 26, I removed all the foam from “NDNM” . She was full of rain water, probably for years. After removing the floor, I noticed than the foam was quite dry on the center, but on a thickness of one or two centimeters all around (floor and hull) it was full of water, even after 2 years under roof. The smell was awfull and I think than on a long range, such water can affect the polyester structure.
              As in France boyancy product must be stuck to the structure, I can't use empty bottles. I am using polyester sandwich panels (used to built frigo trucks or frigo building) with foam between two GRP sheets. You can arrange pieces free or cheap from truck body shop or from frigo builders. I use them, stratified to the hull with epoxy, making the crash box very stronger than with only foam.
              Bonzo is right for the product in two bottles : products in one can are easy to use, but not so good than those needing a mix on the spot.

              #11643

                I Have filled my buoyancy tanks up forward with sheets of 40mm thick polystryrene cut to shape. I only used foam to take up any gaps that were there. Unfortunately I did not know about builders foam being NOT CLOSED CELL. However there wasn't much used and I hope that I have got away with it. I fitted an length of rainwater tube down to the lowest point and put a small inspection hatch over the top to look down check if it gets water in. (none so far but I am not afloat yet!)

                #11644

                  I Have filled my buoyancy tanks up forward with sheets of 40mm thick polystryrene cut to shape. I only used foam to take up any gaps that were there. Unfortunately I did not know about builders foam being NOT CLOSED CELL. However there wasn't much used and I hope that I have got away with it. I fitted an length of rainwater tube down to the lowest point and put a small inspection hatch over the top to look down check if it gets water in. (none so far but I am not afloat yet!)

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